Friday, January 29, 2016

CC 2015.4 update Lightroom / Camera Raw 6.4 and 9.4 with a new option for panoramic

CC 2015.4 update Lightroom / Camera Raw 6.4 and 9.4 with a new option for panoramic

Adobe has updated its tool editing / photo cataloging and Raw developer. Adobe Lightroom CC goes to version 2015.4, Lightroom to 6.4 and Adobe Camera Raw to 9.4. The main innovation in terms of the tools is the improvement taking place in the process of creating panoramic , now the preview is faster, it promises to lower the processing time in half and "Boundary Warp" tool or "deformation is created limit "that is, as has been the Spanish translation.

Regarding the latter making tool is the panoramic stretch obtained deforming up to the edges of it. Thus a broader image in the normal mode, which normally have to cut the image is obtained.

With the usual error handling , this new version are also accompanied by new cameras and supported targets . Among the cameras include new releases of Fujifilm few days ago X-Pro2 , X70X and X-E2S . And in the objectives, user demand brand Samyang (along with their brands and Rokinon Bowen), who see most of their manual lenses are now included. The complete list of all material updated can see in the link page end.

In parallel, an updated developer files Raw Camera Raw to version 9.4, which is available only from Adobe Photoshop CC. It also includes the new "Boundary Warp" tool or "deformation limit."
Read more

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Vanguard Alta Pro 263AGH: An analysis of a high quality tripod

Vanguard Alta Pro 263AGH: An analysis of a high quality tripod

Vanguard Alta Pro 263 AGH. And more than five years that I joined my first tripod photographic equipment. How could it be otherwise, I opted for Fancier, following the wise counsel of Jose Luis. A tripod with a quality / price unbeatable and for only 50 euros. But after these five years that I have suffered all kinds of tests: group photos, scenic, macro shots, studio shots. I began to see that the grip was not the same and, above all, when riding my 105mm macro lens (a certain weight) and my 70-300mm and place the tripod more complicated positions, security and precision that was not offered to me I needed .

That's how I decided to replace it with a tripod professional range: the Vanguard Alta Pro 263AGH. After a few weeks of use, I am completely satisfied and the proof is in this article I want to recommend it to analyze it for you and if you are looking for a tripod with the offerings.

Not a tripod for Beginners
I do not want anyone to be offended, but I honestly think it is a tripod for someone starting out in photography, unless you have very clear he wants to become something more than an amateur photographer. First, for the price, which exceeds 190 euros. And, as mentioned, there are tripods in the market for a third the price of this they can offer great results: for example, a button.

And second, because if you're not picky about the tripod, you probably do not appreciate the significant differences that separate it from other more economical. That said, there are some spectacular features of this wonder of stabilization :)

No. 1 Physical Characteristics: A very robust tripod

Manufactured in an aluminum alloy, it is a tripod which weighs 2.65 kg and has a length of more than 70 cm collected, but in its maximum extension reaches 1.70 meters. It has a ball head, to whose setting and management is accompanied by a gun. By fixing this system, the tripod is able to support weights of up to 6 kg, one of the main features why I opted for this tripod.

Another aspect that I find noteworthy for being an important detail, is that it includes a small "kit" with the necessary keys to tighten the screws of the structure (you can see in the picture on the right, hanging tripod). Not surprisingly, I did not need to use it, but when you have the need, will be fully accessible. And finally, to protect it comes with a bag for easy transport and saved.

# 2 outrigger firm and very Adjustable
The tripod legs, the same material as the central column, have a diameter of 2.6 cm and characterized by its firmness, but especially for the versatility of positions. As usual in many tripods, it's feet in three sections, to facilitate adjustment to desired height. And, as to the feet, they have a position interior and smooth floors and other outdoor (nailed). The passage from one to another is basically to screw or unscrew the end of each leg.

But undoubtedly the highlight of the legs, is offering three positions open: 25th, 50th and 80th . This last start really useful for macro photography, combined with the possibility of displacement of the center column to be discussed later.

# 3 Central Adjustable Column
Another important element of this tripod is the central pillar. That can rotate up to 180 degrees . With this shift can be adapted to take macro to complement the maximum aperture of the legs or placing the inverted central column. As you can see in the pictures below.

Besides these possibilities of rotation, this column provides at its bottom a hook from which to hang a weight for added stability and system antishock (through the orange ring you can see in the picture) to protect possible camera movements abrupt. As a tip, let me tell you whenever you go to move the central column from its usual position, you make sure you set yourself the camera in a position such that its projection on the ground is within the region between the legs, otherwise you can be sure that will expire. By pure physics.

# 4 Gun: Maximum Precision and Stability
Perhaps the most important element of this tripod, not in vain the patella is usually what separates a good tripod for a better one, is his kneecap and gun. With this gun is possible up to 90 ° turns in the vertical and horizontal plane . And it may also make panoramic sweeps along the horizontal axis with a precise indicator of the number of displaced degrees.

The setting position of the ball can be performed by continuous pressure gun or deactivating the clamping mechanism, locating the proper position and re-adjust. And all this with great precision and great firmness once fixed position. Holding, as we said at the beginning, up to 6 kg. In addition it is noteworthy that the anchoring system to the camera is strong and safe through the orange tab that can be seen in the upper left image and that we shall see a whole video on this tripod.

Let's see it in action No. 5
It is not easy to transmit all the possibilities of this tripod with a few images and a poor attempt at textual description of me. So let's see a complete video that explores much of its virtues.


Although it is in English, I'm sure you will not have problems to understand because of what we have said so far. But if there is something you do not clear, do not hesitate and take advantage of the comments.

Want one? Find it on Amazon
And here all I can tell you about this fabulous tripod. The following will show images captured through its use. But that will have to wait for new items:) Do you think a good tripod? Do you want one? I bought on Amazon after much searching and comparing prices. So my recommendation is to not look there. Of course, you should not confuse it with the High + 263AGH, 50 euros cheaper, but whose central column does not allow rotation. Remember, we have presented here is the Alta Pro 263AGH. Already you have it and want to tell us your experience ? Do you have another tripod also consider professional quality and would like recommendation? For leverages the comments and tell us!
Read more

Sunday, January 3, 2016

6 Factors to help focus attention on Photography

6 Factors to help focus attention on Photography

Many of the decisions made ​​by great photographers to see how to make a particular photograph, are intended to highlight the main reason is intended to photograph. The goal is to get focus on this point in particular, in order that the story that the picture is clear without distractions. Mastering the art of focus is one of the magical luck in photography. But how do you get attract the eye of our audience at a particular point? Increasing called visual weight of it. In today's article you will find it easier than you think and will review together 6 key factors that enhance the visual weight.

How? If I ask you, do you get attention (to the note, go) if you walk down the street, you might answer me that, screaming, wearing fancy clothes, undressed in short, doing something out of the ordinary: differentiating you from the rest. If you look closely, the contrasts attract our attention. Many agree to ensure that it is a genetic footprint of our hunter spent hundreds of years ago. The eye movement pursues when everything still, changing color in a landscape of uniform color, the point of light in the darkness.

It is the same photographic element in contrast, takes care; the different element draws the eye to him. And how we do "different" Our main reason? As always, there are no absolute rules, but there are some factors that can help us.

The attention goes to Focus Point
This does not mean that from now on, ran pictures of great depth of field in which everything is perfectly focused. It simply means that one of the elements to attract attention is to make a point that this is the only focused on photography.

6 Factors to help focus attention on Photography

The attention goes to where there is something
Long ago we were talking about the rule of negative space. It is precisely this rule which will allow us to draw attention to a cause. Put your motive in an environment in which there is nothing, or not stand anything, and seek your eye motif.

Search Persons Care and especially the Eyes
It is an automatic response. When people in a picture, the focus is mainly on them. It is as if we understood, by default, are the protagonists in the picture. In particular, let's eyes. For this reason it is so important in portraits, and in general, the eyes are perfectly focused.

6 Factors to help focus attention on Photography

Attention is focused on that is different
In my country they say that the nail that sticks the hammer takes :)Well, more or less that is. Look at the photo: a grandstand full of chairs and where the eye goes? In the red. Again the contrast. This time in the form of color.

The focus is they point Lines
The lines marking a seductive path photograph that conveys lots of feelings. If you want to review it, I recommend you give a tour of this series of articles. And when the guidelines in a photo converge at one point, our focus is on him. As simple as that.

Chasing Light
In environments where there is darkness a beam of light often it happens that the eye is focused on it. As if he would tarry waiting for that, through it, to get something out. So, another way to focus on one point is to play with the light that illuminates.

6 Factors to help focus attention on Photography

Any factor? Have you used some other factor? Are we what you tell in the comments?
Read more

Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Top 10 Pages to Edit Photos Online

Top 10 Pages to Edit Photos Online

Over time Internet is offering more and more possibilities. In this sense more and more websites offer the possibility to edit your photos without having to download or install any software. Simply accessing the browser to the web page and upload your photos.

The advantages are many, for example, is no longer necessary to always go with your computer under your arm as you can access these " online program "from any computer with an Internet connection. On the other side, since Photoshop launched its online version have been many others who have developed these specialized websites on the issue, allowing actions that recently we could only imagine a payment software like Photoshop.

Do not miss them, they are free. The truth is that years ago could not even dream of applications as well, and now I have more than one among my favorite links. And there are times that I edit photos of friends or family on a computer that is not mine, and such programs can perform various kinds of settings easily and quickly, dramatically improving my photos.

Not all programs have the same profit, not all are handled equally. Sometimes even, I combine the use of a pair or three of them to achieve the desired results. But hey, I roll. Here's the list.

Top 10 Pages

1. Photoshop Express

The best :
High quality results.
Preview the results before applying.
Very easy to use.

The worst :
Calling miss Photoshop layers.
Adjustments are applied throughout photography.
No selection tools.

2. SumoPaint

The best :
Very elegant interface.
Layers, filters, adjustments. A complete pack of possibilities.
Functions on the right mouse button.

The worst :
It would be nice to use layer masks.
You may're missed some filters.

3. Pixrl

The best :
Possibly the most powerful web application with a remarkably similar to Photoshop interface.
Useful keyboard shortcuts and right-click deployment.
Layers, masks, countless filters, powerful tweaks.

The worst :
Nothing to say, Well if in your favorites!

4. PicMagick

The best :
Possibly the fastest.
Clean, well structured and very smooth interface.
Fine adjustment levels of the image.

The worst :
You can take in tools and filters needed.
Only you can export in JPEG

5. BeFunky

The best:
Very intuitive and easy to use well structured presentation.
It has a vast range of filters and effects presets.
You can order your image objects such as mugs, t-shirts, key chains.

The worst :
Only in English.
Some utilities are subject to underwriting.

6. FotoFlexer

The best :
It allows the use of layers.
Very clean interface.
Advanced image settings.

The worst :
You can find some tools cost.
In the Spanish version may be missing options.
The use of layers is something heavy.

7. Phixr

The best :
Hides many possibilities.
We can find most of the setting options that normally use.
Easy to use and Spanish.

The worst :
Darn ugly interface, does not do justice to the benefits of the application.
Cuesta find the game you can get photos.

8. Splashup

The best :
Structure interface similar to Photoshop.
Interesting tools and filters.
No advertising.

The worst :
There is hardly any possibility of changing levels and tones.
There are filters that you miss.
Poor selection tools.

9. Face of the Future

Application developed by the University of St Andrews. It is itself a program of digital retouching, but I'm sure that will pass a good time. Add a photo of your face and select your profile. You can quickly see you as a child, adolescent, adult, old man and many more effects.

The best :
As some surprising results.
Application for fun.

The worst :
It was part of a university project and it seems that no longer supports.
Does not recognize the face, you have to tell where the eyes and mouth are.
Web:  http://morph.cs.st-andrews.ac.uk/Transformer/index.html

10. Fotor

The best :
Powerful photo editing with a very careful interface.
Melting capacity of HDR photos.
Creative effects, collages assemblies cards.

The worst :
It does not support the use of layers.
The setting options may be limited for finer work
Moreover, it does what it says. It's a great page photo editing
Read more

Sunday, December 20, 2015

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

Light is the fundamental aspect of photography that matters. The amount of light that records the sensitive material (sensors in digital cameras) is what determines the exposure. Exposure you decide where each of the tones of the scene set yourself: has nothing to do with the available light in the scene. In other words, the available light due to a physical matter, while exposure with the light made available is a completely creative question therefore personnel. Understanding exposure must be the first objective of anyone interested in photography. It is the basis for everything else.

In the cover photo, I decided it was important to preserve the texture of the clouds. For this I measured the light in the upper right, the brightest, placing +3 EV exposure. The rest fell tone which I was interested. In the digital development slightly I increase the brightness of the grass in the foreground to highlight it.

When we talk about Expose, we talked about Place your scene Tones
Light from a scene can be measured with a hand photometer, which measures the incident, or the camera meter, which measures the light reflected light. All cameras incorporate a scheduled photometer to measure the light reflecting objects. By convention, the cameras measure the 18% reflected light, that is, what is called a medium gray 18%. When speaking of exposure normal tendency is to think, first, in adjusting camera parameters (shutter speed, aperture and ISO); although, in reality, these three settings are the tools that cameras and lenses, available to us for exposing any scene.

Therefore, the first important issue to consider is that when we talk about placing expose the tones of the scene, which has nothing to do with adjusting the camera settings. An obvious proof is that a night scene, with adequate exposure time, can become a very bright picture, even appear to have been made during the day (almost). The aim was to preserve the soft lines that drew clouds; if that texture is lost, the picture does not make sense to me. I performed the measurement in the area lit clouds. The sun in front produces a strong backlight that generates flare in the lens, although I do not dislike.

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

The objective of this picture was to preserve the soft lines that drew clouds; if that texture is lost, the picture does not make sense to me. I performed the measurement in the clouds illuminated area. The sun in front produces a strong backlight that generates flare in the lens, although I do not dislike.

Early last century, the American photographer Ansel Adams set a tone measurement criterion called the zone system. This system, still used today, provides 11 zones ranging from 0 to 10 (from 1 to 10 are numbered with Roman numerals). More comfortable is the system that sets a standard with 6 possible levels: black, second shadows, shadows first, first light, second light and white. The medium gray area lies V, in the zone system, and between the first shadows and the first light in said other system. We use the system we use, all agree on three benchmarks: the black, medium gray and white.

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition
All shades of any scene are between black and white
In this photo we have several clues tones. Misty landscapes often have a small dynamic range, which easily has no place in the sensor. Therefore, I usually expose for smog + 2EV. If it were clear, no haze, the grass is closer to the center of the image has a tone slightly above halftone we could have used to expose; as well as the ocher center of the image, in this case, slightly below.

Do not be scared, but you need a little theory of Color
Simply put, the tone is each of the colors of the visible spectrum. Are all major, secondary and intermediate colors of the color wheel, without being mixed with white or black. Saturation is the purity of a color such that the maximum saturation of a color match the wavelength of the color spectrum. The brightness is adding white or black to a color to make it lighter or darker, respectively. Therefore, a medium gray -the reflecting 18% of light-has a brightness of 50%, which is to say, that its exposure stood at 0 EV.

What if there are no white or black? For what already mentioned, the palm is +1 EV above middle gray. In this case I used moss, brighter than the grass. I chose a medium gray area as and explained thereafter. Derechear I took to get greater exposure and shadow detail. So clouds background are burned, but do not matter in the image.

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

Exposing: The Possibilities of Medium Gray location
The exhibition shows the camera with the meter set to 0, always shows a reflectance of 18%, regardless of color or tone of the real object. Therefore, leaving aside the creative issues and focusing on the accurate record of the tones of the scene, recording the camera exposure suggests three possible scenarios:

  • The tone that suggests -the gray tal camera matches the tone of the scene. In this case, we get an exact reproduction of all shades of the scene that fit into the dynamic range of the sensor.
  • The tone that we measured as medium gray and it has not caused a shift towards black tones, resulting in underexposure of the tones of the scene. In this case, we have to compensate the exposure with a positive value. This is because the measurement was performed in a medium gray to lighter shade. 
  • The tone that we measured as medium gray and it has not caused a shift in the tone of the scene at the target, resulting in overexposure of the tones of the scene. In this case, we have to compensate the exposure with a negative value. This occurs because the measurement has been made in a darker shade of gray than the average. The darker the higher the displacement.


How We place the tone where it belongs?
Compensating the exposure. If we measure a medium gray tone without compensation and we want to have a lighter shade can open the aperture, use a slower or may even raise the ISO speed. Conversely, if we get a darker shade, we close the diaphragm or use a faster speed.

Therefore, we can say in general that:
  • A medium gray needs a compensation of 2.5 steps in a positive light as to leave no white texture. About 2 steps to get some texture, but being still white. X area in the zone system for white; VIII and IX, for some textures, that is, the second lights.
  • A medium gray needs compensation -3 steps of light (negative) to leave as black without any texture. If we need to retain some texture offset somewhat less about -1.5 or -2 steps. Zone 0 and I, for absolute black; II and III, for some texture, that is, the second shadow.


Therefore, if at any stage we have a black or white color tone, since we have a reference for proper exposure (I repeat, according to the tones of the scene, without any creativity).

This bronze sculpture "Charon" Ramon Conde, I was interested to catch the maximum texture eye area, where there is the approach. The white face is 1.5 EV because if any white located on your site, background light would have eliminated the small silhouette of the Tower.

Criteria to consider in deciding the tones Let's Get the Picture
There are several criteria that we consider when we decide where to place the tone.

  • The former may be aesthetic criteria. For example, in fashion photography where overexposure of skin tone are used to obtain a washed texture.
  • Another criterion could be creative, in which we are forced to use a particular aperture to achieve shallow depth of field or lot. Or a certain speed to record movement or freeze.
  • Technical criteria, imposed by the dynamic range of the sensor. If not all large we would like, it can cause a compression in the tones of the scene - especially in those very any supporting that requires us to decide between keeping the lights or shadows.

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

In this image, the lights illuminating a castle produce some colorful reflections in the water contrasting with the deep blue of the night. Color is the main reason for the photo and the boat, only a visual anchor. Therefore, exposure record chasing gold and orange hues, without being burned. The top black are lost, but a slight blue tone of the night remains reflected in the sea water.

Taking all this into practice
All the comments must be translated into appropriate for the purposes we pursue exhibitions; nothing is right or wrong, if the result is the result of reflection and application of knowledge in the making of the photograph. Therefore, as I told you, the key is to measure correctly. My choice is the spot metering in all cases. There is much literature on the subject, so I will not dwell, but I do believe that total control involves working in manual mode and spot exposure. From there, once we have acquired the knowledge on how to display properly and how to use the parameters offered by the equipment for it, you can opt for the use of semiautomatic and even ISO in AUTO mode.

No need to look for objects of medium gray to 18%, identify the tones of the scene through the information you provide each. For example, a landscape where there are white clouds illuminated by the sun, can make measurements on these clouds and place about 2 or 2.5 steps above the middle gray. If we are in the snow, we can measure the snow and make two steps, to maintain its texture. Another reference, the green of the grass-always that the directors do not give them enough sun approaches the middle gray. And one more if any scene, we measure the light in the palm of the hand and we place a step above 0 which marks the middle gray in our exposímetro- have fairly tight tones scene.

Learn tobe a master of the photo exhibition

In food photography it is essential to be precise with measurements to properly locate each tone in place. Therefore, if we do not have a precise reference in the scene, the use of at least one gray card is required. If you do not disponéis one you can use a white sheet and use it to expose the still life properly.

Conclusions and Some Tips
  • Speaking of tones and black, medium gray and white, some may think that we refer to the photograph in black and white. Nothing is further from reality, all the colors of the scene fit into the dynamic range of the scene, that is, they are represented in some way to an existing tonal gradation between the extremes, black and white.
  • By exposing we decide where we place the tones of the scene.
  • It works in a timely way to have total control of the measurement.
  • Separate measurement of the shutter button, so you have even more control. I remember that when you work in manual mode button does not work exposure compensation, since you decide about all exposure parameters.
  • Each camera has a different dynamic range. You will have to test and verify where the highlights are burned and where blacks are pasted (the detail is lost) to your computer. If the tone of the scene you're going to record fit into the dynamic range of your camera sensor, derechea exposure.
All image from dzoom.org.es
Read more

Saturday, December 12, 2015

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

Just because something is popular means that something is known by a large part of the population; another thing is that they understand. I do not know if the volume of photographs taken with mobile than those made with other cameras; but I guess yes and win by a landslide. Almost all have a mobile with camera, we almost always with us and most of us do pictures with it. Even some only take pictures with the phone, to the extent they are able to resolve their travel only with a camera phone. No objection, since obviously not all have the same interests. But the question that comes to me is not comfort, undeniable, of traveling with mobile versus doing an SLR loaded with several lenses and other gadgets, but the quality of the photos obtained. Again, if the user does not care, to me either; but many complain and of course, we are here to clarify some concepts.

Mobile Phone and Camera
No one questions the goodness of an SLR detrimental to the ability of the photographer, but if we speak of a mobile camera, the problem is that mobile is always bad. Nobody understands photography as well as to use an SLR frontline, if not in AUTO mode, but also are experts in handling a camera phone.

Before publishing a photo taken with an SLR I know that many of the analyzed backwards and forwards. However, when the same photo has been taken with a camera of a mobile seems that no matter their quality, there is more to look at what is published.

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

Yes, you can make great pictures with a Phone camera
Yes, you can make good pictures, that is visually appealing. I am aware of the ambiguity of the definition, but talking necessarily imply quality refine each of its facets, defining and establishing the minimum acceptable for each of them. So for quality we could take the following aspects: quality is the absence of noise; Quality is the domain of the composition; quality is suitable size; quality is sharpness; quality is color accuracy; Quality is an interesting reason.

Usually, when I show a photo taken with the phone many people are surprised, but I put the same effort when using the SLR. I try to bring to end all the above aspects, and some more in order to maximize camera performance.

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

I know you can not define a word using the same word, but it's like a truism. We all know what a camera, but many are unaware that all the principles and rules governing older sisters (compact, EVIL, BRIDGE, REFLEX) are also valid for smaller, particularly mobile phones.

The important thing is the light; no matter if we take pictures with a medium format camera, an SLR or a brick. The camera phone is a tool, like an SLR 2000 €, therefore, it is important to learn to use, because each tool has specifications that make it different from the others, but its purpose is the same.

Therefore, first conclusion: do not go crazy, everything I learned served. Second, if you have not had the opportunity to learn the minimum, you only have to appeal to luck.

Here is a list of issues to consider when making photos with mobile.
1. They have a small sensor, very small. Therefore, the photo detectors are also, especially as more megapixel have. We can already imagine that, in general, will not treat well the noise, so that shots taken in low light are committed, in terms of sound quality is concerned.

2. Its opening is fixed and wide. It's easy to find cameras with an f / 2 or even with an f / 1.8. The opening is large due to the high diffraction occurs on the edges of the sensor, which prevents having upper openings.

3. The focus is fixed, typically a wide angle in the range of 24 mm to 31 mm equivalent in a chamber full sensor.

4. The most phone cameras have optical zoom, therefore, the zoom is digital. This means that crops the image and interpolates pixels to simulate the increase with unfortunate results in many cases. The optical zoom involves the displacement of the lens what-if applied well as mobile trigger the need for more space, that is, thicker than the terminals (some invention on the market).

5. The flash only to be used as a flashlight, not for pictures. In fact, in my opinion, should not be able to be activated from the camera application. Keep it off, ever!

6. If you assume that our vision is equivalent to 50 mm and with it a boy at the far end of a football field seems distant, with 24 mm long story.

7. It is false that they can not make good portraits with an angular, but we must do.

8. On selfies, also I have opinion, but I reserve it for unpopular.

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

So can you take good pictures with the phone? Definitely yes! What to do?

Put like that, the normal response would be "the same as you would with an SLR."

1. All pictures without flash. If there is insufficient light, enjoy the time on something else.

2.  do not pretend to offer a string of tips on composition, but if you are far from what you want to photograph, zooming in you incorporated your feet.

3. Many landscape photos taken with a wide angle, suffer from something in the foreground, close to the camera, which add interest to the photo (this happens in general, not just with photos of the mobile).

4. Angular distort at the ends of the frame, avoid placing important elements of the composition near the boundary of the frame.

5. The depth of field depends on the size of the playback on the sensor, that is, if we want greater depth of field we have to ward off the focus point, since we can not play with the opening. This is due to the very large aperture if you focus foreground shallow depth of field.

6. Separate measurement approach. Failing that, use the exposure lock. Lets you compose the scene with the light that interests you.

7. It is necessary to compensate, but usually a little adjustment accessible not understand why.

8. Since the focus is fixed and the opening too, I usually leave the speed and ISO in AUTO mode. Just adjust exposure and white balance. But I shot in RAW and then process the photo. On occasion use the manual mode, but not with the same frequency as the SLR. It is preferable to leave the camera ready to dip into it as needed, without changing anything.

9. In relation to the previous point, use two applications: the default one, for photos fully automatically and need to resolve quickly; and other payment allows me to manage exposure at will, the latter use it when I have time to take the photo.

10. Shoot in RAW if your camera allows. Will force you to process the photos, but worth it.

How To Take Good Pictures With Mobile Phone Camera

Conclusion. Cameras that incorporate mobile phones are governed by the same physical and electronic other high-end cameras principles, only the former are more limited. Similarly, there is no reason to forget all the technical knowledge used to make pictures with high-end cameras. Indeed, the more knowledge, better able to exploit the resources of the mobile camera.
Read more

Friday, December 11, 2015

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

There is a group of preferred SLR cameras, which are those usually recommend, but if you ask me a single recommendation almost "absolute" for a photographer who is starting in the SLR world, will answer "Nikon D3300", a camera whose features and functions that have only evolve over time, and the price, paradoxical and fortunately, has done nothing to lower.

That first love. I opened my eyes in photography with a Nikon D60. A camera that was good basic, no frills or flourishes. He had LiveView with it you could not see on the screen what you were framing, to watch live and you had to shoot your eye to the viewfinder. He had no more than 10 megapixels, 3 few focus points and extra features like Wi-Fi and even talk. Still, I speak from many years ago with what was offered it was a great camera, worthy of that cost 750 Euros at the time. I started my journey in the world SLR with her, and although my needs were evolving and ended up spending more professional cameras, today not only keep my D60 with great affection, but I use it regularly. Its small size and light weight make it very easy to handle and transport.

The evolution of Nikon D3300
Over time the Nikon D60 was replaced by the Nikon D3000, the same camera but with name changed and evolved features. A few years later, it changed its name to turn and renamed D3100, and again, the change brings important additions in functionality. After a while back to take another leap, to be renamed D3200, until it lands today in what is known as D3300.

As I said, every time this name changed camera, Nikon will expanded its functionality, making it more contemporary, more useful and adding extras. When I look at the features of the current Nikon D3300 compared to my D60, the outcome was tremendous: 24 megapixel resolution. When I tried the 10 megapixel D60 I remember years have stayed fascinated.

Video recording in high definition (1080 at 60 fps). The Nikon D60 had no video directly. If you wanted plus photos video, you had to carry a video camera in the backpack. Live View functionality that lets you compose while watching the screen of the camera itself and shoot what seeing live pictures from the screen. The D60 obviously did not have this. The screen only served to look at the photos and fired once. The D3300 comes equipped with a long battery life, lasting about 700 shots. The D60 battery lasts considerably less. And I could go with each of the features of the camera, ISO sensitivity (better pictures at night), focus points (best autofocus), weight sensor, Wi-Fi, coupling with your mobile phone, etc.

In short, if the Nikon D60 was a great camera, the D3300 is a great camera multiplied by 10. D3300: great camera, small price When it comes to buying a camera or recommend someone one, I have the habit to avoid "last word" of the market. Normally when manufacturers release a new model to the market they tend to place a relatively high price, leaving the model immediately preceding a much more affordable price. With little difference in functionality between a model and the next, my recommendation is usually always buy the immediately preceding model.

Applying this rule, the Nikon D3200, which is the immediate predecessor to the D3300 model, should be my great recommendation. So it was for a long time, until the price of the Nikon D3300 started down. As I write these lines, Amazon, my favorite store, the Nikon D3200 costs 387 Euros while the D3300 (top model) is now about 399 Euros (both with lens included). The close price deference between the two models makes the D3300 is my most recommended camera at this time. The difference in performance outweighs the slight price difference. Also, when I compare the difference in performance between my old D60 again and the current D3300 along with the price it cost me the first (750 Euros) compared to the current price of the D3300 (399 Euros) I get laughter.

Nikon D3300 Photo Result

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The Evolution of Camera, "Nikon D3300"

The photos are never the product of a camera, photographer but behind it the. Still, it is reassuring to know that you have chosen camera, used as intended, it is able to make impressive photo results. It is the case of the Nikon D3300, then I leave a small selection of photos taken with this camera, people mostly amateur.

If you like this camera, remember that you have the Nikon D3200 for about 387 Euros or at a minimal difference, the higher the D3300 model. If you ask me my advice right now I would recommend the D3300, for me it is the absolute best SLR camera for the amateur and novice photographer at this time.
Read more