Saturday, November 14, 2015

When I started photography

When I started photography

I used this weekend to dive for my photo archive and prepare some collages for grandparents, I know they love. See photos that did at first and now you do is a very interesting exercise: offers the perspective that is drawn between things you have learned and (of course) that you have left to learn. I have met with photos I took some time and several years of unique moments and where the hell! I made mistakes, surely, would not commit today. And I thought that my best penance could be contártelos so you do not spend you too.

On the Rules and the universal truths in Photography
We have already spoken many times in DZOOM. However, I would start this collection of tips remembering that no immutable truths in photography. Basic rules widely used in composition (as the well-known rule of thirds) are often broken by great photographers magical photos. Now, that does not mean that the rules do not have their utility (the photos that follow, usually "work") and to break the rules and get good results you must have a speck of genius (or perhaps just a good reason ).

- In Pictures, Focus on the Eyes
If you work with a lot of depth of field, you're not going to notice. But soon you open the diaphragm begin to notice the difference in approach to the nose or eyes. If you pick a point on the face to be focused, and have no particular intention, other eyes. When go a portrait, the eyes of your viewer looking eyes, and if these are not focused your instant seem to lose something.

When I started photography

- Are you sure you noticed in the Fund? Decide what you need Fund
There are many occasions when a fund that is not well chosen can ruin a photo. For reasons of light (too protagonist), depth of field (too much detail), flashy distracting elements, etc. The fund may divert attention from our foreground and prevent it stand out. So, remember: think about what you want to photograph, and seeks suitable location that allows you to choose the background you need.

- In Pictures, Evita 50mm Focal Lower
Especially over short distances. A focal such a distortion effect by which appear as puffy faces (unless that is clearly what you're looking for) occurs. Between 70mm and 85mm focal have that often give very good results in portraits. If you raise that number, you'll also increase the spread of the background and focus on the person.

- Always shoot in RAW
I think this is the indisputable point. I had the excuse that my first camera not allowed to shoot in RAW. But if yours allows, do not be lazy and shoot in RAW: no color. But then I suppose a little more work to share your photos because you have to convert them to JPEG. You will keep your memories with much higher quality and adjustability. Even today do not know how to make the most of RAW, tomorrow you may know, or know someone who does. And if the circumstance arrives and what you have is a JPEG and can have your RAW, you're going to regret. I guarantee you.

When I started photography

- Outdoors, you sure you're interested in direct sunlight?
Guilty: origins in photography in my thought that the more intense was the best light. This was one of the first lessons I learned: usually best to be the soft light that hard. Direct sunlight creates deep shadows who have to live with strongly lit areas. High dynamic range (which is difficult for the camera to capture) and loss of detail. The soft diffused light generated more progressive transitions and often works better. So outside, if you're in the middle of the day, in general, seek shade, expected to reach a cloud (if there are visible) or, if you can, wait until the sun goes down.

And you? What would you like to have known when you made that picture?
I imagine you will have passed you something. When you look at some of your old photos you realize some mistakes and you wish you had known ... what ?. Tell us in the comments!

11 Tips for Making Better Pictures that always work

11 Tips for Making Better Pictures that always work

A while ago I was going over the pictures I took on my last trip. I must admit that I am somewhat irregular taking pictures, and whenever I ask myself why I come to the same conclusion: sometimes do not pay all the attention they should and do not the pictures "with love". When I look what I've done I realize the times when I did the photos, the failures that I made in each of them, and above all, the reasons why, in my opinion, some of the photos I do that they are clearly better than others pictures of me. So, I wanted to reflect in this article about some tips that work for me and that will surely work to make better photos when you go out with your camera the next time. If you have two minutes I'll tell you what they are.

1. Check the camera settings
Rather than to make better pictures, is not to make them worse or not completely spoil. And it often happens to me that I have not reviewed how the camera settings even from session to session.

By shooting modes with which I work, I usually have controlled the aperture and shutter speed to use in my photos, but there are other elements such as ISO, exposure compensation mode or measurement of light , not to adjust each picture, sometimes I forget to review them. It's good that you apply one review of the camera controls to minimize the number of problems caused by incorrect settings when taking pictures.

2. Watch the background
Sometimes I focus on the main element of the photo and see if any unwanted forgotten item appears at the bottom of my photography.

I'm so focused on what I get to forget everything else. My brain isolates the main detail of other elements within the frame at the time of taking pictures, but when I check the computer work I realize the error: in many photos are elements that, far from being interesting, become annoying distractions blasting work.

Therefore, it is good practice to check the background well beyond the focus of the picture to make sure that nothing comes out that should not be in the picture.

3. The frame
This is one of the main problems of who starts in photography. We want to get too much into our pictures, and in the end we took while there's nothing there.

Many experts say that a photograph should have a single center of interest. If to look at a picture can not clearly identify which is the focus, the photo probably be improved. Therefore, if you doubt or not to include something in a picture, most of the time it is best not to include it. And to do that, you can get closer to what you really want to shoot, either yourself or using the zoom.

4. Select the target
If your photographic equipment accounts for various purposes you probably ever present this problem. The objectives, according to their characteristics, are typically designed to cover a topic or a series of them.

There are especially suitable targets for portraits others landscapes, macro others ... Each has characteristics that make it great for that topic but maybe not so much for others, such as its focal or opening.

Although it does not have to be a hard and fast rule, if you use a target for what you are probably thinking of greatest satisfactions.

5. The interesting elements can make your interesting photos
Many times that you go with your camera and there is nothing to encourage you to take a picture, and others in which you suddenly see something and wish to take your camera up to portray.

Certainly, there are situations and elements that deserve to be photographed. Over time you will know to recognize them. And photograph. And surely they will become strong magnetic Attraction in your photos.

6. Understands the light
The size of the light source, angle, how it impacts on the scene are elements which completely determine the final look of your photo. Have you ever tried to take pictures in one place and have seen the outcome varies depending on the time of day or the weather? One outdoor stage at different times of day can acquire completely different aspects and a lot more interesting than others to be, and so does artificial lighting.

They understand the basic principles of light will help you choose the best time to make the best pictures.

7. Get a sense of depth
We are live in a three-dimensional world in two dimensions to reduce the time we do a photo. But we have elements that can help us to translate that feeling deep in our photos and return the information that third dimension. Perspective, the use of foreground elements and lines within our composition are elements of great help in achieving this sense of depth.

8. Test different views
We are used used to take pictures always in the same position: standing, with the camera pointing forward, forming a plane parallel to the ground, as we see the world.

Have you ever stopped to try to change the perspective? Take pictures looking up or down, from high points or from the ground, they can give a new perspective to your most interesting photos from the conventional position.

9. Try different locations
Sometimes you get to a site or see something you want to photograph without more, prepare your camera and you start to take pictures.

There is nothing wrong with that, but maybe you're not leaving best frames analyze the scene and your environment. Many times what I do when I get to a place that I want to photograph is looking to take a trip from different locations to see which one story with a better view of what I portray in my photos.

10. Take care the composition
The composition is the set of practices and rules that make a photo work and some not. It may seem magical, but since time immemorial have been applied in other art disciplines. Simply they work.

If you've never been interested in photographic composition, it is a good time to do so. You will discover the existence of basic rules that can also skip and that certainly will help you improve your photos.

11. Tell a story
Do the exercise looking at the cover of a newspaper and look at the main photo. It is suitable for accompanying news? Do you transmit information? When you take a picture you have the opportunity to tell a story with her.

Think about what it represents, think what their most notable features, and how you can empower your photo to emphasize the message.

Friday, October 30, 2015

Landscape Photography

Good photos in landscape photography not created in an instant. It is relatively unimportant whether you like just before the falls or the cornfield around the corner New Zealand, although the latter design looks not quite as spectacular. The Cornfield, or the nearby forest, however, is perfect as an entry motive because yes you can quite easily reach these places as well as at any time.

The early bird gets the worm - also in landscape photography
And in an appealing light mood and matching weather conditions can be a really adorable motif also the cornfield! The right lighting effect to capture great scenes one finds mostly at dawn or dusk or dawn or sunset. In this called blue hour period the light is diffuse, the color temperature of the sun warmer and the shadows longer and not nearly as hard as at full afternoon sun. The sunrise can sometimes create an even more beautiful light, because the air is still fresh and clear to these initial days, which has a positive effect on the mood of the image. In nature photography, there are also elements like morning dew on leaves, which is why one prefers to sunrise the sunset. But but you have unfortunately crawl out of bed early, which most people (including me) is very difficult. Unfortunately, extraordinary recordings also require uncomfortable steps. In this context, I would recommend the article "The best time to take pictures" on neunzehn72 who extensively busy themselves, including many great picture examples!

I recommend you to try the whole time with the cornfield or the forest around the corner. Choose a specific scene in your area and take pictures at different times of day and weather conditions. Compare the recordings then another. So you get quickly a good sense of what time of day and what the weather is the extent to which affect the light mood.

Landscape Photography
Despite an appealing design not ideal lighting situation (excessive contrasts, hard light / shadow)
Landscape Photography - better with tripod and remote release
In landscape photography applies when it comes to the focus distance, similar as for architectural shots. To depict the entire landscape sharply, You need a more closed aperture from F8. For landscapes, fine details also are very important, which is why a lower ISO value is required. The consequence, which arises from the fact have longer exposure times, suggesting the use of a tripod recommended to appear. This can be especially in winter when even aufgehendem Sonnnenlicht the case. With longer exposure times, even here it is advisable to use a remote switch to shake the image by pressing the shutter button on the camera to avoid.

The right lens - wide angle or normal lens?
Depending on the subject, choice of perspective and taste different focal lengths in landscape photography can be necessary. First a wide angle lenses come to mind that can capture a lot of the scenery. For many situations, these lenses are also quite suitable. But even if you want to see the beautiful scenery as much as possible on the screen, it can sometimes be suboptimal, short focal lengths to use the wide angle end. Shown details that are very far away, are represented with this focal range usually far too small. The risk is great that the view of the essentials by too many items will be diluted in the photo. Try it once with a standard lens (50mm). In order to not get "everything" on's image, but can concentrate on individual, interesting image sections and this stress.

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Nature Photography

Nature Photography
It need not be equal to the Amazon - Initially ranges also the local wildlife park for hunting for matching designs.
Probably the most beautiful and varied motifs can be found in nature. Just as diverse is also the world of nature photography. The selection of plants and animals of all kinds offers endless possibilities of ideas and inspiration especially for beginners, even if the ambitious hobby photographers and professional nature photographers are worlds apart.

The perfect location for getting into the Nature Photography: Forest Park and Zoo instead rainforest After all, the hardships and the knowledge that behind a unique nature photo, are enormous. Depending on the environment in which there are nature photographers, represent the environmental conditions sometimes high demands on people and equipment. Moisture (rain) forests, extreme cold and heat, dust, sand and critical weather conditions are just a few examples to illustrate this. It is therefore appropriate in nature photography for beginners, similar to the landscape photography to begin only once in his own front door. The nearby forest or park can exert its attraction beginning also.

Even when nature photography You have to take pictures at odd hours to capture the perfect lighting mood. And at the latest when venturing out on the motive chasing animals, you have to know when they are most likely to be found where. Before you are photographing animals in the wild, but you should pay the Zoo of your confidence a visit to practice in peace. After all, unlike in portrait photography with people, you can Animals not instruct but must usually wait a long time until the subject has taken the "right pose" or can look at all once. The zoo is a good exercise area, especially as the animals there is not so easy to tear when it notices you. Zoo animals are also used generally to humans and therefore not so shy. In the wild, however, it may happen that you have to endure a long time quietly at one point until the desired animal motif can look in front of the lens.

Technical equipment in the nature photography - macro lens, telephoto lens and tripod
The transitions between landscape and nature photography are blurred. Depict all nature landscapes is sexy. But from then on, you can always go into further detail and photographed individual trees, grasses and even individual leaves or flowers. The smaller it will be, the more likely it is advisable to buy a macro lens or at least a corresponding conversion lens. For insects and similar small creatures is something indispensable.

In the wild, telephoto lenses are essential to get the animal from possible further distance as much as possible on the picture. From 200mm upwards you should already begin. The farther you move ran to the animal, the more likely it is that it flees is. Many animals move sometimes very jerky. So you need here short exposure times - especially when you are photographing in the telephoto range. The longer the focal length, the higher the camera shake. If necessary you have to increase the ISO value, however, resulting in less detail and image noise. A bright lens with image stabilizer is here in any case, a worthwhile investment!

Work, if possible, even with a tripod. Especially when you want to depict natural landscapes, the same rules apply as in landscape photography. In animals monopods also can be very interesting, as they provide a balance between flexibility and stability.

Learn better pictures: Helpful tips for beginners

Learn better pictures: Helpful tips for beginners

Learn to use the technical basics of photography
What is the shutter, which shutter speed? What is the ISO value in charge? And how these factors influence each other? How do the different types of exposure measurement of my camera and what is the right for different uses? Even without being able to answer these questions, can be made with today's digital cameras passable snapshots. However, the knowledge helps immensely to shutter speed, ISO and Co. to achieve far better results in different situations. And at the latest when you ask more ambitious demands on your photography and with eg a digital SLR camera work, the knowledge about the technical basics is essential. If You've never dealt with this matter, it falls at first somewhat difficult to acquire the necessary basic knowledge and put it into practice. If this basic understanding is but only once available, you will be with the time and the necessary exercise fast very safe when setting the correct values ​​for the respective image situation!

Learn better pictures: Helpful tips for beginners
Laughing fish in the aquarium at the Leipzig Zoo. The situation required a handheld photography without flash with little ambient light. I had to raise the ISO speed and select a halfway open aperture to have enough light available in this case. So I was able to adjust the exposure time is so short that I was able to photograph yet without shaking out of his hand. Knowledge of aperture, ISO and shutter speed is very helpful in such situations.
For a quick introduction to the subject, I have to check the main points of detail, but easily explained. In addition to aperture, shutter speed and ISO setting, the measurement methods of cameras are vividly conveyed. On the Internet there is additionally, as well as numerous other sources, especially videos, mediate this matter. Who's command of English, should be carefully perform this basic video by Tony Northrup once to mind. Especially on the go as a "cheat sheet" can be extremely helpful and this infographic (pdf file).

Look reflected perspective and framing: Before releasing
Before I press the shutter button and hold fast an image I think about in addition to the matching values ​​for speed, aperture, and ISO also, if I, the desired visual effect achieved with the image detail or the perspective that I have chosen. You should therefore consider beforehand whether you find yourself with your camera to the right position and these have properly aligned. Depending on the nature of the subject and the situation should be let diverse thoughts about going through your head. Sit apart with your motif, for example, go around it (if possible), look at it from below and from above, from left and from right. Where is the best background? From which perspective the subject will appear in the right light? What other image elements disturb which values ​​the photo? What focal length is the right one for the subject and the image effect? Of course situations where you have to react very quickly to the camera, for example, in sports photography or when photographing animals. But the basic approach should be to have studied before pressing the shutter button with the image design.

Learn better pictures: Helpful tips for beginners
Statue-in-Prague --- image effect and Perspective Example. A fine example of perspective and image effects - a statue in Prague. The version on the left looks less impressive. The saving is mainly the disturbing picture elements (Lantern and person in the background). The right version is somewhat successful, works more dramatic. The lantern is now no longer visible, but serves as a suitable staged counter lighting.
Faster learning progress when shooting with a fixed focal length
A prime lens is a lens whose focal length range can not be changed. So you can not "back", as it says so beautiful the layman. In addition to optical advantages over lenses with variable focal length (eg higher optical resolution, light level), these lenses have especially for learning joyful Photography freshmen an enormous advantage: the reduction to a fixed focal length you deal automatically intensive described with in the second paragraph approach. Instead of mindlessly "in and to zoom out," you go up a few steps closer or away from the subject, change the angle etc. - ultimately deals intensively with the image you want to capture. Natural zoom lenses also have their pros and cons. A little comparison of zoom lenses and prime lenses can be found here.

It is therefore recommended especially for newbies to invest in such an objective. For starters I recommend prime lenses at 50mm, because its image section is the most universally used. With this focal length can master a fairly wide range of shooting situations - at least in combination with reflex cameras that have a full-frame sensor. However, most beginners DSLRs have a so-called Crop sensor. In this type of sensor, the image section reduced by approximately one third and 50mm are more in 80mm, which then goes back in the telephoto range and the possibilities limits. Fixed focal length to 30mm are in Crop sensors therefore the better choice because they meet here in about 50mm lenses. A good choice to start with is as the Canon EF 35mm 1: 2.0 or the AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm.

Constant practice and critical approach to their own pictures
"Practice makes perfect" - added, it's a pretty platter saying, but why not a false. In terms of photography you could also say: "Your first 1000 photos are your worst." Only through constant practice you will get better. Scan as much as possible and take to heart the pertinent instructions of this and other articles. Reflect your own photos critically and ask yourself what you could have done better. Look in the course of its pictures by other photographers and learn from them. Compare your photos but not with the works of outstanding masters and photographer Do not be discouraged. One can not today be as good tomorrow to publish photos for National Geographic. Good renowned photographers have even begun and usually a very long and stony learning process behind them.

Learn better pictures: Helpful tips for beginners
"Last but not least," it should be said: Have fun taking pictures! This advice is just as important as all the above.

Correct the autofocus of your digital camera; how it works?

Correct the autofocus of your digital camera; how it works?

One of many reasons for blurred images is focusing on the wrong area in the picture - it was not properly focused. The main motive (eg face in portraiture) is out of focus, while the background is clear. This source of error for unfocused images you can prevent. I want to give you in this article some basics and some tips along the way, the better to focus you allow.

Autofocus - Function and Procedure
In virtually any digital camera - from compact to SLR - makes today the autofocus to focus on it. Once you half press the shutter button, the camera calculates on the basis of reflected light or using an ultrasonic signal how far the subject is from the lens and adjusted by a motor, the lenses so that the correct area is brought into focus.

For this purpose, the camera uses different pixels, the so-called AF points. Depending on the camera, these are different identifiable - usually in the viewfinder by small rectangles or circles, but also on the camera screen. Once the camera has successfully faced sharply after the half press the shutter button, "beep!" Blink one or more of these measurement fields (in the viewfinder) in red and the camera is also a short signals the successful focusing. Now, the trigger can be pressed all the way. The properly focused photo's in the box!

"Unfortunately it does not always work smoothly. Autofocus encounters in some motivational as light situations often reaches its limits. The most common problems and questions I would like to describe a solution-oriented below".

Although the autofocus adjusts easily sharply, however, on the wrong area in the picture
This can happen especially when several pixels in the image are located and, moreover, are at different distances from the camera under certain circumstances. The camera is now looking out the picture element, which you want to focus their opinion. But you can only do so on the basis of technical information such as differences in brightness fix and not on the basis of the image content itself. Still less can know the camera, which image statement is to convey the picture and therefore, what exactly do you want to ask ultimately sharp. So it seems like in the example that the wrong subject is focused. The autofocus will work technically, but not content.

Correct the autofocus of your digital camera; how it works?
You want the plant have brought into focus, the lens does not? Without manual intervention (individual selection of the measuring field) Camera decide independently and in this example has the "wrong" motif, namely the lens (red marked areas) focused, while the plant already again blurred background blur.
The problem can be but quite simple to get a grip. To tell the camera what exactly they want to focus, you enabled only the AF point, which is located on the motive. All others are ignored and the camera focuses exclusively focuses on the selected measurement field. The measuring fields can be selectively filter On most bridge and SLR. In compact cameras, however, these individual settings are mostly, if at all, very limited available. Here you should look carefully when buying, if you want to have this flexibility even with compact cameras.

Manual selection of the measurement fields takes too long and is not flexible enough
Now it is according to experience so that this approach of constant manual selection of the AF point in some hectic situations quickly comes up against its limits. Especially with lively motif situations often changes the position of the main subject, you want to focus on that. Every time to go to the menu to select another measuring field, can not only be annoying, but it also runs the risk of missing out on beautiful thematic situations and occasions, because no time the correct setting has been chosen. Moreover, it occurs naturally, that the main motive just not reflected in any of the AF points.

So what to do if you now want to continue to use the auto focus? A proven technology to work very flexible, yet very precisely by means of auto-focus, is the following:

  • You can activate only one AF point (the best in the middle).
  • You select the image so that this one point is at the design that you have brought into focus like.
  • You ask sharp for this picture by looking semi durchdrückst the shutter
  • You position the camera so that your desired image section can be seen in the viewfinder, but hold the shutter button down halfway (the motive remains thus focused)
  • You press the shutter button completely - the photo with the right focus is in the box!

This can be a little confusing and complicated. With a little practice you have this rotation but out quickly and can react very flexibly to rapidly changing shooting situations. One thing though has to be considered: it may be indeed change the picture while you let the shutter button halfway, but not the distance to the subject. This can happen, where one looks at the camera from your subject / on the subject approaching or even changed his / her position to the front rear. When that happens, must be refocused again to get the focus on the shot.

Correct the autofocus of your digital camera; how it works?
Focusing with the central AF point: preferred motive focusing (left picture), select preferred image section (right picture) and trigger.
The autofocus fails and can not focus - you can not tripping
The motor in the lens buzzing desperately to herself and the focus range changes in the stroke of the engine, but can not find a point at which he would like to focus. Triggering? It does not work! If you have not already experienced this situation, they will meet you at the latest on high-contrast non-subjects or in low-light conditions. With the former, for example, white walls are meant. If you want now provide a white, pale, barely lit Vase fumbled in front of white wall, the sensors are used in the camera quickly reach their limits, since they measure the distance to the subject based on differences in brightness. Even ultrasound or an AF-assist beam, if any, are not a panacea.

The first measure that should be taken in such cases: enable the center AF point and make so sharp. This is a cross-type sensor with most camera models. Cross-type sensors are more precise because they measure both vertically and horizontally as opposed to the other sensors. Especially in low light, the autofocus works with this measuring field still quite reliable.

If you focus the main subject does not work, because the contrast and / or light are missing, you can dodge to other elements in the image for focusing. Choose a higher contrast element in the image (edges, corners, color differences, etc. work well), which are equidistant from the camera has as your main subject, place sharp and advance before raising your main subject again to the desired location in the image.

Correct the autofocus of your digital camera; how it works?
Rockabilly-evening in a bar in Leipzig - in low light conditions is worth the choice of the central AF point and the focusing on high-contrast subjects.
With these tricks can make quite good sharp even in low light situations with the autofocus. But at some point gets the best system to its limits. In such situations, the examiner has only manual focusing. This can go depends on focal length and focusing screen used more or less difficult by equip. The theme of manual focusing is here but not be viewed in detail - I'll deal with it at times even in their own contribution.

Even when focusing with only one measurement field-point leads to focussing errors
First make sure you have the distance to the subject when focusing and triggering the meantime does not change or your motive has not changed the distance. For short distances and open aperture settings (= very shallow depth of field) can have the smallest front and back mean that your main subject is in the background blur.

If this reason can be excluded, there is another, quite annoying cause in question: a front or back focus problem. The autofocus does not control the focused target. Depending on the quality of the lens and quality of the camera, the autofocus is sometimes more and sometimes a less precise. No autofocus can operate correctly at 100%. At the latest in low light conditions, he may be next often times, even though the photographer has done everything right. A major problem is the matter, however, if the autofocus is very often deviated and often the area in front of the focused Scene (= front focus), or behind the subject (= back focus) is sharp. How reliable Your camera system works in this regard can be determined at with this test.

What to do in this case? Some SLRs offer the setting option to correct inside the camera manually to front or back focus of the lens, an EOS 5D Mark II can, for example. However, this comes at a price. Entry-level SLRs offer this option but usually not. Then, this problem can unfortunately only be removed by an adjustment or repair of the lens. When buying a new lens, I recommend, therefore, the above-linked test conscientiously carry out and to send the lens in an eye-catching fehlfokus behavior back and test another specimen.

RAW format Photography- is it worth it?

RAW format Photography- is it worth it?
Cat in the garden
I have from time to mention the RAW format on this page short - eg in connection with the ISO value and my base article about image editing. I would now like to devote a separate post, where I explain all relevant benefits and the drawbacks that arise when shooting with the RAW format this topic. The aim of the paper is to obtain an answer to the following question: "Is it worth it for me to photograph photos in RAW format?"

RAW format - what is it all about?
Many digital cameras (especially smaller compact cameras, but SLR models), the images are by default sent already before saving by an internal image processor for processing. There are adapted, inter alia, sharpness, contrast and brightness, saturation is increased slightly and eventually removed existing image noise. The thus created image is stored in compressed form in the memory card.

When shooting in RAW format this processing step is omitted. The data is stored unedited and uncompressed completely "raw" on the memory card. The images are not saved in JPG format, but in a specific data format, which is depending on the manufacturer to another (eg Canon uses the file extension .CR2). The RAW format contains all image information in unedited form, as it has been recorded by the sensor of the camera. The files can be using common programs such as Edit Photoshop Elements or Lightroom. Many camera manufacturers provide a separate but also software available (RAW converter) to read and edit the RAW formats.

Benefits of the RAW format
The full control. Who attaches great importance to an extensive image editing and would like to have this full flexibility, which will be very happy with the RAW format in perpetuity. Because, as already mentioned, in this raw data format, the image is stored completely unedited on the memory card. Thus one can take from scratch all rework to 100% according to its own preferences and usage in attack. With a solid post tool that also RAW files supported (eg Lightroom) can be all important processing steps take into their own hands - from the noise reduction over exposure compensation, contrast, saturation to the lens corrections and the sharpening.

RAW format Photography- is it worth it?
RAW files for example, Lightroom individually edit - Brightness, Contrast, saturation, lens corrections, sharpness and low white balance correction applied to the image. Links You are viewing the unprocessed RAW format, right after the image processing steps
It can be reworked by the camera JPEGs produced - but these were already processed by the camera (and this is usually not too tight). Renewed editing these files may adversely affect the image quality. For example, a re-sharpening quickly pull unsightly artifacts by itself and a further noise reduction deprives the image more details than by the noise reduction of the camera are anyway already been lost. Here you are with RAW on the safe side, because you have a completely unprocessed image in front of him.

Very high dynamic range
In addition, the JPG files are missing not only by the noise reduction of the camera image information already. The compression wears her Rest of help. Here it is all about the bright and dark areas in the image and the ways to correct them in the post. That's JPEG images only to a limited extent possible because these files have already been removed from the camera through the compression important image information. If you have, for example, by slight overexposure a white or "blown-out" heaven, this can be much more generous when restore RAW format. -Lost image information are once again to see - the clouds in previously white / overexposed sky come to light (see example image below) by the correction again. Exactly how you can proceed to rauszuholen from the RAW shooting, the maximum dynamics, eg described vividly among the practical tips in this Traumflieger articles. This works with JPEGs usually not - here bright image areas remain ausgefressen. But there are also the dynamic range of the RAW format limitations. Who much too overexposed or underexposed, comes here to the limits of the RAW format.

RAW format Photography- is it worth it?
You are viewing a motif that has been included in the JPG format, to the right one with the same settings in RAW format. The attempt to correct in post, the burnt-out lights in the sky is much better succeeded in RAW format. Many details in the sky could be restored in the right photo.
Disadvantages of RAW format
The thing with the file size. RAW files take up much space. While JPGs claim 3-8 megabytes, depending on the resolution of the camera, RAW files do not come rarely to 30-40 MB per image. That has an impact on many facets of photography. Firstly, the camera takes more time to write the photos on the SD card (or CF card). That has an impact on the speed and duration of the continuous shooting mode. About a greater period of time will produce multiple images per second when shooting in RAW format difficult, even with high-speed memory card. This is particularly annoying for photographers who need to scan fast moving subjects (eg sports photography). The sequence mode is much faster when shooting JPEGs.

In addition, you need for RAW files quite simply more space - both on the memory card in the camera as well as later when editing on a computer. Who wants much photographed and hoard tens 1000 RAW files on his hard drive, should previously be aware, the need to invest in a large enough hard drive. Here I recommend drives from 1 terabyte of storage upwards. The situation is similar with the amount of RAM. I remember, how long did it take on my old system with 4GB RAM, up Lightroom has created the preview for this or that processing. 8GB are on contemporary systems today the minimum.

All you have to do by yourself
If you shoot in RAW format, you have to be aware that an unprocessed image, so to speak, replaced by a digital negative. This has its advantages as mentioned, if you want to implement all aspects of image processing according to their own ideas of high quality. This advantage can quickly turn into a disadvantage and become a burden when looking for image processing has little left and much prefer to concentrate on the real pictures with the camera. In this case, you shoot with the use of the RAW format over the top and has at the end of the ton to edit raw data in the worst case on his computer, but not the slightest desire this all. The problem is that each RAW image has to be necessarily edited. Because in comparison with the already processed by the camera JPEGs, the raw images look rather too faint, fuzzy and dull. It's obvious - because the camera has left the image alone and as it came from the sensor is stored in the memory card.

RAW format Photography- is it worth it?
In extreme cases, see RAW files compared to their already processed by the camera JPEGs from that. Links the unprocessed RAW variant, right the JPG file that has already been processed by the camera - can clearly see the differences. Brightness, Contrast & Sharpness already added to the JPEG. The RAW format acts contrary pale and dull - here is forcing a manual finishing required.
Conclusions - for whom it is worth the RAW format?
To put it short and concise to the point: If you like to edit his photos with high standards and great flexibility on computers that want to get the best possible quality of his pictures, has ample storage resources, and does not rely on uncompromising fast continuous shooting, the accesses the RAW format.

Who can do with photo editing not much or rather a lot of time with the camera and want to spend as little as possible on the computer screen time, the image processing should leave his camera. Even with photographic disciplines in which a lightning-fast continuous shooting mode is a basic requirement, makes the JPG format much more sense.